Cleaning the Engine of Your Car
Cleaning an engine is a long, delicate, tedious operation, sometimes risky for mechanical and often messy.
And, except in the case of heavy work in the engine compartment, it is not frankly useful.
Oil and grease mixed with dirt protect in their own way the outside of the engine from corrosion. A clean engine is not a guarantee of reliability, as a dirty engine is not synonymous with the risk of damage. Nevertheless, when selling a car, a clean engine leaves a better impression.
Before cleaning, some precautions should be taken.
Wear protective goggles and do not operate on a hot engine.
The mechanics would be subjected to thermal stresses unnecessarily, the risk of burns would be significant and the cleaners used could evaporate before acting.
In addition, it is necessary to operate at a professional or a washing station in order to benefit from a wastewater treatment system.
In fact, the majority of cleaners and dirt removed are polluting.
To get a good result It is often necessary to spray a degreaser or cleaner dedicated to the motor and distribute the product with a brush, brush or cloth.
For the following operations, two parties oppose:
With or without high-pressure jet;
Many tinkerers or craft mechanics discourage use. They judge the risky operation for mechanics and electronics because pressurized water can seep in everywhere and convey impurities.
They favor the brush and the microfiber cloth and the elbow oil.
But many motorists use the high-pressure water jet.
If for a superficial wash for example after an all-terrain session in the mud – the only precaution to be taken is to operate the engine (so that the rotating parts drain the water), it is otherwise for a deep cleaning.
There, it is advisable to protect sensitive parts with plastic bags duly attached or taped, or food film.
The parts to be taken care of, the alternator, the ignition, the fuse boxes, the electronic calculators, the air filter, the air inlet or the master cylinder.
Also be careful not to approach the spray of the sound insulators, which may take off or tear. Once the cleaning is complete, the plastic protections must be removed to avoid condensation.
Finally, if you dry the engine with compressed air, it is better to restart it so that the rotating parts centrifuge the water, as you do when using the high-pressure jet.
Be careful, being limited to cleaning is a mistake. Some elements may corrode or, worse, get cold. It is, therefore, necessary to finish with the projection of an electrically neutral liquid lubricant (type \VD10) or a specific motor protector on the connectors, pushrods and other moving metal parts, as well as on the hood hinges.